Lisbon Hop On Hop Off Why I Was Completely Wrong

Last updated on August 23, 2025 at 17:53:40

Look, I need to come clean about something that’s been bothering me. For months, I’ve been that smug expat in Lisbon who’d roll his eyes whenever a Lisbon hop on hop off bus rattled past my flat in Alfama. You know the type – muttering about “bloody tourists” whilst sipping my galão at the local café. Feeling terribly superior about knowing which tram to catch to avoid the crowds.

Then my mate Dave from Manchester visited last month. Dave’s the sort who reads every TripAdvisor review and still manages to pick the worst restaurants. But on day three of his visit, something happened that properly knocked me off my high horse. We were struggling up the hill to Graça when he spotted a Lisbon hop on hop off bus. His kids were moaning. His wife was giving him that look. Dave practically begged to get on.

I nearly died of embarrassment. Three hours later, though, we were in a tiny tasca near São Jorge Castle. Dave said something that’s been rattling around my head ever since: “Mate, this isn’t just transport. It’s like… therapy with a view.”

How I Accidentally Got Fitter (This Is Embarrassing)

Right, this is properly embarrassing. I’ve actually lost half a stone since I started using the hop on hop off tours with visiting friends. Not joking. Here’s how it works – I only realized this when my Fitbit started congratulating me on random Tuesdays.

You see something interesting from the bus. Let’s say you’re passing through Belém and spot Pastéis de Belém. Obviously, you hop off because you’re only human. Walk to the shop. Queue for ages. Eat three tarts (don’t judge). Feel guilty. Decide to walk to the next bus stop to “burn it off.” Before you know it, you’ve done five thousand steps without even trying.

Compare that to my first week in Lisbon. I tried to walk everywhere like a proper local. Absolutely knackered by day two. My feet were destroyed. Day three? Spent most of it horizontal on the sofa, moaning about cobblestones. The hop on hop off approach spreads the walking throughout the day. It’s like interval training without the lycra. Nobody’s shouting at you either.

Those Views Do Something Weird to Your Head

I’m going to sound like a right hippie here. The Lisbon hop-on-hop-off routes’ miradouros truly have an effect on your psyche. There’s this one spot Senhora do Monte. Most tourists skip it because it’s a five-minute walk uphill from the bus stop. First time I went there, I was just following Theo (my five-year-old). He’d spotted a cat and was determined to pet it.

But then I turned around and… bloody hell. The whole city spread out below. Orange roofs like a sea of terracotta. Castle on the left. Bridge stretching to Christ the King. The Tagus glittering like diamonds on blue silk. I actually forgot what I was stressed about. Completely forgot. Had to check my phone to remember I was supposed to be worried about a deadline.

Sarah thinks I’m being dramatic. There’s actual science behind it though. Something about elevated views triggering evolutionary responses. Apparently our caveman brains think we’re safe when we can see everything. All I know? Twenty minutes at a miradouro beats an hour of meditation apps.

The Weird Social Thing That Happens

You know how British people normally are on public transport. Eyes down. No talking. Pretend everyone else is invisible. Something bizarre happens on these Lisbon hop on hop off buses though. Maybe it’s the sunshine. Maybe it’s the holiday mood. People actually talk to each other.

Last Thursday, we were on the bus heading to Belém. (I remember because Theo had just poured orange juice in my laptop bag that morning.) This woman from Leeds started chatting to a family from Dublin. They were laughing about the audio commentary butchering Portuguese pronunciations. Twenty minutes later? Sharing a bottle of vinho verde at a riverside café. By evening, they were WhatsApping restaurant recommendations.

I’ve seen it happen dozens of times now. Gasping at views together. Gripping the rails when drivers take corners like Formula 1. Laughing when someone’s hat flies off. These shared moments create instant connections. Very un-British, but rather lovely actually.

The Money Thing Nobody Talks About on Lisbon Hop On Hop Off

Here’s something that surprised me when I actually looked into it. These hop on hop off tours in Lisbon aren’t some massive corporate tourist trap. They employ local drivers all year round. Not just in summer when cruise ships dump thousands at the port. João, one of the regular drivers, has been doing the route for twelve years. Knows every stone. Every tree. Every secret sunset spot.

Your ticket money maintains the monuments. Keeps the viewpoints clean. Even supports the new electric buses they’re bringing in. (Finally – the diesel ones going up to the castle were getting a bit much.) Unlike those bloody tuk-tuks racing through Alfama at midnight, the buses stick to main roads. Respectable hours too. My kids can actually sleep.

The Honest Truth from a Reformed Snob

After a year of watching visitors and finally swallowing my pride, here’s what I’ve learned. People who use Lisbon hop on hop off buses see more of the real city. More than those who exhaust themselves walking. More than those hitting only Instagram spots their influencer mate recommended.

Get the forty-eight-hour ticket. Much better value and takes the pressure off. Start early – nine o’clock from Marquês de Pombal. Beat the cruise ship crowds. Bring water, especially in summer when it gets proper hot. And please, hop off whenever something catches your eye. The next bus comes every twenty minutes.

Spot a slightly frazzled British bloke with two kids? One drawing in a notebook. One probably covered in food. Patient-looking woman rolling her eyes at his commentary? Come say hello. I’ll tell you about the secret garden in Príncipe Real. The bus passes but doesn’t announce it. Or the café near stop fourteen where they make life-changing bifanas.

Because that’s what I’ve learned. The Lisbon hop on hop off isn’t just a tour bus. It’s a key to the city that actually works. Even if admitting it makes me feel like a massive hypocrite. Dave was right. I was wrong. There, I’ve said it. Now, where’s that wine?

Jorah Beckett lives in Lisbon with his remarkably patient family and writes about the city at Lisbonly.co.uk when his laptop isn’t full of orange juice.

FAQs About lisbon hop on hop off

Q: Is the Lisbon hop on hop off worth it for just one day?

Absolutely. You’ll see more in eight hours than walking yourself into exhaustion. Start at 9am, pick three must-see stops to properly explore, and you’ll still have energy for dinner in Bairro Alto.

Q: Which route should I take first?

Start with the Belém route (red or orange line). It covers monuments you can’t reach by metro and includes those legendary pastéis. Save the castle route for late afternoon when the light’s magical.

Q: Can elderly parents or young kids handle it?

Perfect for both, actually. Drivers are patient, you can rest between stops, and kids think the narrow streets are better than roller coasters. My mother-in-law with bad knees managed six stops easily.