Caparica Beach Your Lisbon Surf & Sun Paradise
Last updated on November 4, 2025 at 21:04:22
Quick version because you’re probably deciding right now whether to go: Caparica Beach is 20 minutes south of Lisbon, massive stretch of proper Atlantic coast, way less touristy than Cascais, and you can actually get there on a bus. That’s it.
Oh, and it’s called Costa da Caparica officially but everyone just says Caparica Beach. Or Caparica. Or “that big beach across the bridge.” Depends who you ask.
So This Wasn’t Even on My Radar at First
I’d been in Lisbon for ages before anyone mentioned Caparica Beach. Ages. We’d been doing the Cascais thing like every other tourist – you know, fighting for parking spaces, paying stupid money for lunch, sitting practically on top of other people’s beach towels. I genuinely thought that was just what beach days near Lisbon were like.
Then Maria – she’s our neighbor in Alfama, Portuguese born and bred, lovely woman – casually drops into conversation that she goes to Caparica every Saturday on the 161 bus. And I’m standing there like an idiot going “sorry, you go WHERE?”
Turns out half of bloody Lisbon goes to Caparica Beach. Just nobody tells the tourists. Which is fair enough really.
First time we went, Theo looks up at me with this shocked face and goes “Daddy why is the beach SO big?” and honestly that’s still the best way I can describe it. It’s just… massive. Like someone stretched a normal beach out until it gave up.
Getting to Caparica Beach The Actually Useful Bit
The Bus (Number 161, Saves Your Sanity)
Leaves from Praça de Espanha or Campo Grande depending which one’s closer to wherever you’re staying. Takes about 40 minutes give or take, costs somewhere between €3 and €5 (sorry I’ve honestly stopped paying attention to the exact price). Dumps you onto Rua dos Pescadores which is this pedestrian street that leads straight to the beach.
It’s not a scenic journey or anything. Standard Lisbon bus, bit crowded in summer, smells vaguely of sun cream and yesterday’s picnic. But Lena falls asleep on the way home every single time which means 40 minutes of peace. Worth it for that alone.
Driving to Caparica Beach
Twenty minutes from Lisbon center if you time it right. Cross the big red bridge (25 de Abril), follow signs to Almada then Caparica. Can’t really miss it.
Parking though. Right. So the main bit (around São João beach) charges about €4 for the day which isn’t terrible but – and here’s the thing – on a hot Saturday in August you’ll be circling like a vulture from 10am onwards. We once spent half an hour looking for a space. Half an hour. The kids were losing their minds in the back. Not doing that again if I can help it.
Drive further down the coast and you get free parking but then obviously you’re walking more in the heat. Can’t win really.
Around São João beach, parking costs about €4/day. Not bad, except on a hot August Saturday when you’ll circle forever. Drive further down the coast for free parking, but get ready for a long, sunny walk back. You can’t win them all.
Ferry to Cacilhas Then a Bus
Done this once. The ferry bit’s lovely – proper nice views of the Tagus and all that. But then you’ve got to faff about getting another bus and honestly with beach stuff and two small kids it’s just a massive pain. Wouldn’t bother unless you really like boats.
Which Beach Bit to Go To (Because There’s Loads)
So here’s where it gets weird. Caparica Beach isn’t one beach. It’s like… 20 or 30 different beach sections all connected, stretching for miles south. Each one’s got a slightly different vibe and you need to pick the right one or you’ll end up somewhere completely wrong for what you wanted.
| Beach Bit | What’s It Like | Our Take |
|---|---|---|
| São João | Families everywhere, first-timers, pretty convenient | This is where we usually end up. Lifeguards, toilets, restaurants nearby. Waves are alright for kids. Gets busy but not stupidly so. |
| Praia Nova | Right in the center, bit manic | Bus drops you nearest to here but we normally walk up to São João instead. It’s fine but a bit mental. |
| Rainha | Quieter, more chill | When we can’t be arsed with crowds. Not much infrastructure though so bring your own shade situation. |
| Fonte da Telha | Beach bars, sundowners, younger people | Never taken the kids here. Looks class for a proper adult evening out though. One day maybe. |
That Little Train Thing
There’s this tiny tourist train called the Transpraia that rattles up and down the coast in summer (June to September-ish). Stops at loads of different beach zones. Costs a couple of euros or something.
The kids absolutely love it. Like genuinely think it’s the highlight of Portugal. Lena makes us go on it every time. Theo has to sit at the front or he gets moody. I’m not saying it’s comfortable or particularly quick but when you’re knackered and covered in sand and it’s 35 degrees, you’re not walking 2km to the next beach are you.
We usually start up near São João in the morning when it’s not too mad, then take the train south later to explore. Once you get past stop 10 or so the beaches get way emptier with these proper big dunes behind them. Really nice actually.
What to Bring (Learned This The Hard Way)
Right so after doing this beach probably 20 times now – might be more, I’ve lost count – here’s what actually matters:
- Sun shelter – Seriously not optional. Get one of those pop-up tent things even if you feel like a complete muppet carrying it. The Portuguese sun will absolutely destroy you between noon and 3.
- Rash vests for kids – The water’s freezing. Properly freezing. Like 18-20 degrees even in peak summer and you’re standing there going “why is literally everyone else in the water acting like this is normal.”
- Cash in actual notes and coins – Beach bars want cash. The train wants cash. Half the restaurants want cash. Just accept it.
- Something warm to wear – I know you think I’m mad saying this when you’re sweating but trust me. Mornings are cold and that Atlantic wind comes in later.
- Emergency snacks – Theo will announce he’s “literally dying of starvation” at 11am. Bank on it. Have biscuits ready.
- Lower expectations about sand – It’s getting in your bag. Your car. Your hair. Your phone case. Your life. Just let it happen.
Food Situation
Not fancy. We’re talking grilled fish, chips, beer, basic salads. Which is exactly what you want after 5 hours in the sun anyway.
O Barbas is the local favorite for sardines. Proper good. But get there before 1pm on weekends or you’re standing around waiting for ages. Ask me how I know.
Coco Beach does family stuff. Won’t judge you when Theo inevitably knocks his drink over. Has a kids menu with normal food on it. Decent enough.
Gula Bar looks brilliant for sunset drinks and tapas but we’ve never actually been with the kids. Maybe one day when they’re teenagers and couldn’t care less about us.
Honestly though any beachfront place that’s rammed with Portuguese families on a Sunday afternoon is going to be alright. If the locals are eating there the fish is fresh and the prices are probably fair. That’s the rule.
We spend maybe €40-50 for all of us including wine and the obligatory ice cream. Lena’s somehow negotiated ice cream into the standard beach day contract. Don’t know how that happened.
Things I Wish I’d Known Before
Caparica town is not pretty. Just want to get that out there. It’s a bit ugly actually – concrete blocks, functional buildings, that sort of thing. If you’re expecting lovely Portuguese tiles and cute streets you’re thinking of Cascais. This is not that.
But and this is important – Caparica Beach has something Cascais absolutely doesn’t which is space. Like actual proper space. Even on a packed Saturday you can spread out your stuff without having someone else’s beach umbrella basically in your face.
The water’s clean too which surprised me at first being so close to Lisbon. But it’s properly clean. Nice actually. And the whole vibe is just… I don’t know, real? Nobody’s trying to be Instagram perfect. Kids are building messy sandcastles, Portuguese families are having full picnics with grills, old fellas are swimming in their ancient Speedos same as they’ve probably done every Sunday for 40 years.
Last weekend we stayed till sunset – Theo built this absolutely mad sand creation he was calling “the Tower of Belém but way better,” Lena was collecting shells she’ll 100% forget about by Thursday, and I’m just sitting there thinking yeah, this is it. This is exactly what beach days should feel like. Not complicated. Not trying too hard. Just proper good.
That’s why we keep going back really. It’s not perfect – the town’s ugly, the water’s Baltic, you’ll have sand in your car for weeks. But it doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not. And with kids that sort of honesty is worth more than all the fancy beach clubs in Cascais.
Anyway – have you been? Am I overselling it? Underselling it? Got questions about the logistics of dragging your own family there? Stick a comment below, genuinely interested to hear what other people make of the place.
FAQ Caparica beach
Where do Lisbon locals go to the beach?
Lisbon locals mostly go south across the bridge to Costa da Caparica for its miles of sand, surf, and beach bars. They also like Praia de Carcavelos because it’s easy to reach by train.
What is the nicest beach town near Lisbon?
The nicest beach town is usually considered to be Cascais. It’s an elegant town with pretty, sheltered beaches, a beautiful center, and a relaxed, upscale feel.
